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Hello From Nova Scotia: A Halifax City Tour (part Ii) Titanic

On the night of April 14, 1912, the Titanic,freighter arrived at the Halifax harbour,
a brand-new and supposedly "unsinkable" ship,waiting to be let into the port. Fatefully,
was on its maiden voyage from Southampton,it was carrying thousands of tons of
England, to New York City. The ship, theexplosives including benzol, nitrocellulose
largest and most luxurious ocean liner of theand TNT. A Norwegian ship, the Imo, was
day, was carrying about 2200 passengers andtrying to depart through the right harbour
crew when the ship collided about 11:30 pmchannel, but another ship was blocking its
with an iceberg. The Titanic carried enoughway, so the Imo veered to the left, directly
lifeboats for just about half the number ofinto the path of the Mont Blanc. Both ships
people which surprisingly was in compliancerefused to yield, leading to a collision at
with legislation in force at that time. Manyabout 8:45 am that ignited the benzene that
of the lifeboats were lowered into thewas stored on deck of the Mont Blanc. With
ice-cold Atlantic only half full, and atthe fire out of control and knowing their
about 2 am in the morning of April 15, 1912,cargo, the ship's crew immediately abandoned
the unfathomable happened: the ship's sternthe ship while hundreds of people were drawn
rose up and the world's first unsinkableto the harbour to watch the fire. At about
ocean liner went down into the cold depths of9:04 am the Mont Blanc finally exploded,
the North Atlantic. Of a total of 2,223instantly vapourizing the ship in a fireball
people, only 706 survived while 1517that rose over one mile into the air. The
perished. Some of the famous victims includedforce of the explosion triggered a tsunami
John Jacob Astor IV and most of the ship'sthat reached up to 18 meters above the high
crew, including the entire orchestra who hadwater mark. The explosion could be heard as
played tunes on deck until the ship'sfar away as Charlottetown, Prince Edward
sinking. First class passengers had a muchIsland, about 175 kilometers away. Not a pane
higher rate of survival than second andof glass was left intact in the city and
especially third class passengers. Some of6,000 people became homeless. The pressure
the exits from the lower decks for the thirdwave from the blast could be felt as far away
class passengers were even locked, preventingas Cape Breton Island, about 205 km east of
many of those passengers from accessing theHalifax. A large portion of Richmond, Halifax
lifeboats. In the aftermath of the disaster,and Dartmouth were leveled to the ground, and
at about 4:10 am, the RMS Carpathia picked upthe death toll reached 1900 people. Thousands
the first lifeboat and continued to rescuemore were injured, many seriously, and
survivors. The survivors were eventuallycountless people were blinded due to the
taken to New York City while a total of 328glass shrapnel that was propelled through the
bodies were eventually recovered. Many ofair. Allen also mentioned the story of a
those were taken to Halifax where they werelocal hero: Vince Coleman, a dispatcher for
meticulously registered with all descriptivethe Intercolonial Railway. Minutes before the
features and personal possessions stored in aexplosion he telegraphed two trains that were
canvas bag. Halifax therefore became a keybound for Halifax, and told them to stop at a
location in the aftermath of the Titanicsafe distance from this area. Vince himself
disaster. 121 of these victims were buried atwas killed in the blast, but were it not for
the Fairview Cemetery while 29 other victimshim, several hundreds more could have died in
were buried at the Roman Catholic Mountthe explosion. The reaction in the aftermath
Olivet Cemetery and the Jewish Baron dewas swift. Communities from all over North
Hirsch Cemetery. Our final stop on this cityAmerica pitched in and sent aid, especially
tour was the Fairview Cemetery which is thetents, blankets and supplies to Halifax.
largest burial ground of Titanic victims inBoston, in particular, was extremely generous
the world. Allen took us to a corner of theand sent an entire train of supplies and
cemetery where there were three lines ofmedical personnel to help the victims of this
white gravestones, all arranged in lines ofenormous explosion. As a result, every year
different curvatures that symbolic reflectat Christmas, Nova Scotia donates a large
the shape of an ocean liner on the top deck,Christmas tree to the City of Boston to thank
the waterline and under water. Allenand remember Boston's help in this major time
explained that the gravestones were erectedof need. My trolley tour provided by the
by the White Star Line, the company thatCompany with the Kilts had come to an end.
owned the Titanic. The gravestones are veryBut as we arrived right in front of the
small and simple, and Allen added if peopleMaritime Museum of the Atlantic, I decided to
wanted a larger gravestone they would havemake a quick stop in this museum since among
had to pay extra for a larger version. Hemany other things, it features two major
pointed out the grave of the "Unknown Child",exhibits: one about the Titanic Disaster and
the youngest victim recovered who remainedanother one about the Halifax Explosion. I
unidentified. The headstone reads "Erected todecided to educate myself more about these
the memory of an unknown child whose remainstwo significant historic events. The exhibit
were recovered after the disaster of theabout the Halifax Explosion features
"Titanic" April 15th 1912". Allen recountedhistorical photographs, newspaper clippings
various speculations that surfaced over theand explanations about this enormous
years of who this unknown child might havedisaster. The Titanic Exhibit upstairs
been. In 2002 finally it was determinedactually features dozens of photographs and
through DNA evidence that the unknown child20 authentic artifacts from the Titanic,
was actually Eino Viljami Panula of Finlandfirst and foremost the only known intact
whose mother and four brothers had also diedTitanic deck chair in the world. This chair
in this disaster. Allen also mentioned thathad actually been given to the minister who
the wreckage of the Titanic was discovered inhad performed so many of the burials at sea
1985 by an American-French expedition. Theand was donated by one of his grandchildren
wreck had broken into two pieces on the oceanto the Maritime Museum of the Atlantic.
floor, with the stern section lying about 600Another exhibit features the Shoes of
m from the bow section and facing in theTitanic's Unknown Child which feature the
opposite direction. What was reallypencil inscription: "SS Titanic victim boots
significant was that when scientists comparedworn by only baby drowned". One poignant
the geographical orientation of one of thedisplay illustrates that fact that passenger
wrecks with the orientation of the graves atclass made a huge difference in the survival
the Fairview Cemetery, they were positionedrate of passengers. For example less than 4%
with almost the same geographicalof first class female passengers perished,
orientation. Hearing this sent shivers up mywhile around 12% of second class female
spine, when I realized that the wreck of thepassengers died and more than 54% of third
world's most famous shipping disaster couldclass female passenger did not survive. I
coincide so accurately with the positioningdid not have time to explore the rest of the
of the cemetery holding its greatest numberMaritime Museum of the Atlantic which
of victims. Things like these are almost toofeatures a whole host of additional
much of a coincidence. On our way back frominteresting exhibits such as the Days of
the cemetery, Allen enlightened us aboutSail, Shipwreck Treasures and Age of Steam
another Halifax disaster: the 1917 HalifaxGallery, to mention just a few. Now it was
Explosion - the largest man-made non-nucleartime for a quick lunch and then my next stop
explosion in human history which occurred onat Pier 21, Canada's immigration museum and a
December 6, 1917. During the First World WarNational Historic Site, and the entry point
many ships used Halifax as a strategic portform more than a million New Canadians
for their ocean voyages to Europe to partakebetween  1928  and  1971.
in the War. On this fateful day many ships
were lined up in the Bedford Basin to leaveSusanne Pacher is the publisher of a web
the harbour to start the voyage while otherportal for unconventional travel &
ships were entering the harbour from thecross-cultural connections.
other direction. The Mont-Blanc, a French



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